What is sashiko?
Sashiko is a Japanese form of decorative stitching built on simple running stitches. It began as a way to reinforce and repair cloth, and it is now popular both for decoration and for visible mending. Because the basic stitch is easy, it is a friendly craft for beginners.
What you need
- Fabric. Traditionally a dark indigo-colored cotton or linen. Evenweave fabric with a fairly open weave is easier to stitch through than very tightly woven cloth.
- Needle. Sashiko needles are long and sharp, with a large eye.
- Thread. Sashiko thread is a thick, tightly twisted cotton, usually used as it comes rather than split into strands.
- Pattern and transfer tool. A printed pattern with transfer paper, a water-erasable pen, or a ruler and pencil.
- Small scissors, and optionally a hoop and a thimble.
Do I need special needles for sashiko?
They help, but they are not strictly required. Long sashiko needles let you gather several stitches on the needle at once, and shorter ones are used for curves. If you substitute a regular embroidery needle, choose one with an eye big enough for the thread, and expect it to be slower for long lines.
Can you do sashiko with any thread?
Not just any, but there are alternatives. Traditional sashiko thread is thick and does not split, which gives the classic look. Some stitchers use six-strand embroidery floss or pearl cotton, which can look similar, though floss can split or fray with repeated passes. Fine sewing thread gives a delicate look but a much less bold line. See using embroidery floss for darning for more on how floss behaves.
Transferring a pattern
Mark your design on the fabric using one of these methods: transfer paper under a printed pattern, a water-erasable pencil or pen, or fusible interfacing printed or drawn with the pattern. Test any marking tool on a scrap first to be sure the lines will come out.
Step-by-step stitching
- Cut a length of thread that is not too long, often around an arm’s length, to reduce tangles.
- Start without a knot if you can: leave a short tail on the back and hold it flat so your first stitches secure it. A small knot is also acceptable for beginners.
- Work a running stitch along the line, going in and out of the fabric. Gather several stitches on the needle before pulling the thread through.
- Make the stitches on the front roughly one and a half to two times longer than the stitches on the back, so the front looks even.
- Keep tension relaxed, smoothing the fabric after each row so it does not pucker.
- Where lines meet, leave a tiny gap so stitches do not cross over each other at the same spot.
- Finish with a small tail on the back, or secure it by weaving under previous stitches.
Good sashiko patterns for beginners
Start with straight-line patterns such as simple grids or parallel lines, then move on to repeating waves and circles. A small sample piece or coaster is a good first project before working on clothing.
Can you do sashiko on a regular sewing machine?
Sashiko is traditionally a hand technique, and the look comes from the thick thread and the uneven top and back stitch lengths. You can imitate it with a sewing machine using a long straight stitch and thicker topstitching thread, but it will look different from hand sashiko.
Using sashiko to mend
Sashiko is well suited to strengthening thin areas and attaching patches. It can cover a worn knee on jeans, reinforce an elbow, or hold a patch in place with visible stitches. If you are deciding how to attach a patch, see iron on vs sew on patches. For knits and woolens, use a softer, gentler approach, and see fixing holes in woolen clothes.
Common mistakes
- Pulling stitches too tight, which puckers the fabric.
- Using very long thread that tangles.
- Crossing stitches at intersections.
- Skipping a test of your marking tool.