The short answer: yes, with a few adjustments
You can sew spandex (also sold as elastane or Lycra) on an ordinary sewing machine. A serger helps, but it is not required. The main change is that the seam has to stretch along with the fabric, so the needle, thread, and stitch all need to be chosen for stretch rather than for woven cloth.
Spandex is rarely used on its own. It is usually blended with nylon, polyester, or cotton, which is why most “spandex” projects are really knit fabrics with a small percentage of elastic fiber. The tips below apply to most of these blends.
What the label means
A fabric labeled “80% nylon, 20% spandex” is stretchy. The spandex portion gives the stretch and recovery, and the nylon gives the body and surface. In general, a higher spandex percentage means more stretch, but the knit structure matters as well, so a blend can feel quite different from another with the same numbers. Check the stretch yourself and compare it to the percentage your pattern calls for.
Also note whether the fabric stretches in two directions or four. Two-way stretch gives in one direction only, while four-way stretch gives both across and along the fabric. Patterns for leggings, swimwear, and dancewear usually specify which one they need.
Tools and setup
- Needle: A stretch or ballpoint (jersey) needle is the usual recommendation. The rounded tip slips between the knit loops instead of cutting them. Sizes around 75/11 to 90/14 are commonly suggested, depending on the fabric weight. Start with a new needle.
- Thread: Polyester all-purpose thread is a common choice because it has some give. Avoid stiff or brittle threads for seams that must stretch.
- Presser foot: A walking foot or roller foot helps feed the top and bottom layers evenly. If your machine allows, a slightly lighter presser foot pressure can reduce stretching as the fabric passes through.
- Clips instead of pins: Fabric clips or wonder clips avoid pin holes, which can be visible in thin, smooth knits.
Stitches for stretch
A plain straight stitch has no give, so the thread can snap when the fabric is pulled. On a regular machine, try one of these:
- A narrow zigzag stitch.
- A three-step zigzag.
- A built-in stretch stitch, often shown as a lightning bolt symbol on the stitch chart.
On a serger, a 3-thread or 4-thread overlock stitch makes a flexible seam and trims the edge at the same time. Always test on a scrap of your actual fabric first, because stretch and thickness vary a lot between spandex blends.
What tension should I use for stretchy fabric?
There is no single number that works on every machine. The tension dial has different scales between models, so the best method is a test. Sew a seam on a double layer of scrap, then stretch it gently:
- If the stitches pucker the fabric or look tight, loosen the upper tension slightly.
- If you see loops on the underside, tighten it slightly.
- If the seam pops when you stretch it, the problem is usually the stitch type or length rather than the tension. Try a wider or longer zigzag, or a stretch stitch.
Change one setting at a time and note what works. Your machine manual may also give a starting point for knits.
Cutting and handling
- Cut in a single layer if you can. Slippery spandex shifts easily when stacked.
- A rotary cutter with pattern weights tends to be more accurate than scissors on slippery knits.
- Lay the fabric flat and avoid letting it hang off the table, since the weight can stretch it before it is cut.
- While sewing, guide the fabric gently but do not pull it. Pulling stretches the fabric as it feeds and can leave wavy seams once it relaxes.
Seams, hems, and elastic
- Use small seam allowances if your pattern calls for them. Swimwear and activewear patterns often use narrow ones.
- For hems, a twin needle on a regular machine produces two parallel rows of stitching with a stretchy zigzag on the back, which gives a coverstitch-like look. A zigzag hem also works.
- When attaching elastic, divide both the elastic and the edge into equal sections (halves or quarters), match the marks, and stretch only the elastic as you sew unless your pattern says otherwise. For projects that touch water, such as swimsuits, choose elastic made for swimwear.
Does spandex unravel?
Knit fabrics generally do not fray the way woven fabrics do. Many spandex blends will not unravel badly at a cut edge, though some may curl or run slightly. For this reason some garments are left with raw edges. Still, finishing the seams with a zigzag or overlock stitch keeps things tidy and gives durability, and most patterns will tell you whether to finish an edge.
Troubleshooting
- Skipped stitches: Use a new stretch or ballpoint needle, and try a different size.
- Fabric pushed into the needle plate: Place a strip of tissue paper or water-soluble stabilizer under the seam and tear it away afterward. Starting the seam with a thread tail held behind the needle can also help.
- Wavy seams: You may be pulling the fabric, or the presser foot pressure may be too high. Let the feed dogs do the work, and try a walking foot.
- Popped seams: Switch from a straight stitch to a zigzag or stretch stitch, and check that the thread has some give.
- Puckering: Loosen the tension slightly and use a shorter test seam to confirm.
How do you stretch out spandex?
If a project needs a bit more room, the safest approach is to choose a pattern size or fabric with enough stretch in the first place. Stretching a finished piece by hand can weaken the fibers and may not recover well, and heat can damage elastic fibers, so be cautious. Check the care label before trying anything on a finished garment.
Where to go next
Spandex blends are the basis of many specialty projects. If you are planning swimwear, read our guide to sewing swimsuit fabric for lining, elastic, and chlorine-resistance considerations. If you are weighing very light, see-through cloth for a different kind of project, our overview of sheer fabric types covers those materials.