What is making lace by hand called?
Making lace by hand is usually just called lace making, or lacemaking. The more specific term depends on the technique. Lace worked with many threads wound on small bobbins is called bobbin lace (sometimes pillow lace), and lace stitched with a single needle and thread is called needle lace. Crochet and tatting are related thread crafts that can also produce lace-like fabric, though lace makers often treat them as separate traditions.
Lace is an open, patterned textile in which the thread itself forms both the design and the structure, rather than being stitched onto an existing fabric. That is the main difference from embroidery, which decorates a base cloth.
The main types of handmade lace
Bobbin lace
Bobbin lace is made by twisting and crossing pairs of threads, each pair held on a bobbin, around pins set into a pattern on a firm pillow. It is one of the two main traditional approaches and is the one most people picture when they imagine a lace maker at work. Many regional styles exist, each with its own patterns and thread weights.
Needle lace
Needle lace is built up stitch by stitch with a needle and one length of thread, usually worked over a temporary foundation. The stitches are mostly variations of looped, buttonhole-type knots. It is slower to work than it looks, but the equipment list is short, which makes it an approachable way to try lace.
Other lace-like crafts
Crochet lace, tatting, knitted lace and netting are all worth knowing about. They use different tools and have their own tutorials, so this guide concentrates on bobbin and needle lace.
Why was lace so expensive?
Handmade lace took a very long time to produce. The work required trained skill, fine thread and often many hours for a few centimetres of fabric. Because supply was limited and demand from people who could afford it was high, lace became a status item in several periods of European history. Machine-made lace later made imitations far cheaper, and handmade lace became much less common as a trade, though it continues as a craft and hobby.
If you are interested in how lace connected to other needlework trades, our piece on making buttons from yarn touches on the historical link between lace makers and button makers.
Tools and materials
For bobbin lace
- Bobbins: small wooden or plastic holders that store and weight the thread. Some beginners start with improvised substitutes, but proper bobbins are easier to handle.
- Pillow: a firm, well-padded surface that holds pins securely. Traditional pillows are stuffed; some beginners use a firm foam block.
- Pins: fine, smooth pins that hold the work in place.
- Pricking: a paper or card pattern with marked holes showing where each pin goes.
- Thread: a smooth, fairly fine cotton or linen thread is a common choice for learning. Check what your pattern or teacher recommends, since thread weight affects how the finished lace looks.
- Scissors and a few small extras, such as a cover cloth to keep the work clean.
For needle lace
- A fine needle, as your pattern suggests
- Thread suited to the pattern
- A pattern on card or fabric, and a stitched-down foundation
- Small, sharp scissors
Bobbin lace for beginners
Bobbin lace has a reputation for being complicated, but the individual moves are simple. The difficulty is keeping many threads in order, so start with a small, simple project and a pattern designed for beginners.
- Wind the bobbins. Wind thread onto pairs of bobbins, using the amount your pattern suggests, and secure the thread so it does not unwind unintentionally.
- Set up the pattern. Pin the pricking to your pillow and hang the bobbin pairs from the starting pins as the pattern shows.
- Learn the two basic moves. A cross passes one thread over its neighbour from the next pair; a twist swaps the two threads within a pair. Most stitches are made from these two moves in different orders.
- Work cloth stitch. Cloth stitch, commonly taught as cross, twist, cross, produces a woven, fabric-like effect and is often the first stitch taught.
- Place pins as you go. Pins hold each completed section in place and keep the tension even.
Many teachers suggest keeping your first pieces small and repeating the same stitch until your hands know the rhythm before moving on to more complicated patterns.
Needle lace basics
Needle lace usually begins by stitching an outline of the design to a backing, then filling the shapes with rows of small looped stitches. When the work is complete, the lace is separated from the backing by cutting the securing threads. Because the stitches are small and the thread fine, good light and patience matter more than expensive tools.
Common beginner problems
- Uneven tension: very common at first. Pull each stitch to a consistent firmness and try not to tug.
- Tangled bobbins: work with fewer bobbins at first and keep them lying neatly on the pillow.
- Losing your place: mark your progress on the pattern and stop at natural breaks rather than in the middle of a row.
- Thread that is too fine: switch to a slightly thicker thread while you learn.
What setting should I use to sew lace on a sewing machine?
Sewing lace fabric on a machine is a different job from making lace. There is no single correct setting, so test on a scrap of your actual lace first. Many sewists use a fine needle, a moderate stitch length and light thread, and place tissue paper or a stabilizer under very delicate lace so it is not pulled into the machine. A narrow zigzag or straight stitch is often used to join lace. Check your machine manual and the fibre content of your lace, and adjust to suit.
Where to learn
Local lace guilds and craft societies often run beginner classes and can help with equipment. Books written for beginners and video tutorials are useful for seeing hand movements, which are easy to misread from diagrams. A short class can save you from buying equipment that does not suit you.
Frequently asked questions
Is lace making difficult to learn? The basic moves are simple, but fluency takes practice. Expect early pieces to look uneven.
How long does it take to make lace? It depends on the pattern, thread and your experience. Even small pieces can take many hours.
Do I need special equipment? For bobbin lace, yes: bobbins, a pillow, pins and a pricking. For needle lace, a needle, thread and a pattern are enough to start.
Can I make lace without a pillow? Some people begin with improvised supplies, but a purpose-made pillow holds pins more reliably and is worth the investment if you stick with it.